Hans' race to 50,000

For a summary of the event, go here

Steve's Talley

Feb 2004

Date Pull-ups Push-ups Ab Rollers Lunges Dips/Abs Drinks Total Comments
Feb 6 10 50 20 60 50 4-IPA
3-gl/cab
190 1-hr bike
1-hr trail run
Feb 7           1-martini
bottle of syrah
6-beers
  5 laps on 5.12
Feb 8           4-red ale
1-pt blonde ale
  5 hours of hiking
Feb 9 60 120 90 120 90 4 - red ales 670 1.5 hr easy bike
Feb 10 60 70 70 120 150 5-pilsners 1140 Fat is where it's at. This belly keeps me warm
Feb 11   100 100 100 100 2-IPA
2-scotch
1540 bike 45m. watched pumping iron
Feb 12 100 100 100 100 100 1-ipa
2-sam adams
2040 Leave for Thailand
Feb 13           4gl/cheap red   on various planes
Feb 14           4 - singha   "
Feb 15           8-beer chang   day one: 9 routes up to 7a, no falls
Feb 16           5-beer chang
1/2 bottle of gin
  Humanality + few more routes
Feb 17           many br chang   rest day, hours of hiking
Feb 18           beer changs
lots of gin
  did thaiwand wall, "best route in asia"
Feb 19           5 or 6 chang   lots of climbing...
Feb 20           lots of chang
Lots of gin
  birthday challenge for josh. 26 routes onsight up to 7b, no falls
Feb 21 5         drank all night 2045 last day in paradise. fell all over a 7c+
Feb 22           cheap wine   travel day
Feb 23           2-bourbon   complete rest day... wiped out
Feb 24 25 30 25 40 55 6-red stripe 2210 edited til 2am
Feb 25 25 25 25 25 25 3-red stripe   once again
Feb 26 25 25 25 25 25 2-rs, 2-ipa   edited til 3am, 2nd cut done!
Feb 27 25 25 25 25 25 10 margaritas   P90x release party
Feb 28           4-ipa
2-knob creek
  sat 2.5 hr mtn bike; sun; 6X5.11, 1X5.12
Feb Total 335 445 480 615 625 app 150 2500  

March
Spring Training Log

 Goals for summer:
Climb: Get ready for Ceuse, Yosemite. Redpoint 13a. Do Half Dome, El Cap, Mid Cath, Royal Arches in a day.
Bike: Get ready for France. 1-hour on L’Alpe d’Huez
Run: Get mileage in. Ready for fall stage races

March – Hypertrophy (4 weeks + 1 transition)
April – Power (4 weeks + 1 transition)
May – Power-endurance (4 weeks + 1 transition)                    Cycle ends 3rd week in June

March: Goal: increase climbing muscle strength, base for run/bike

Hand strength: weighted hangs, system movements
Muscle strength: frenchies, power ladders, typewriters, lock-off boulder problems, up campusing, lock-off pull-ups (all exercise movements held 3-8 seconds) (Count vs. pull-up tally = 3 pull-ups for every 3-8 second lock-off and since they will often be weighted it doesn't seem like an advantage)
Core Strength: Normal 90X stuff (normal sit-ups, crunches, don't count)
Leg strength: various lunges
Bike Fitness: 2 good rides per week, 1-2 easy rides per week

Run Fitness: 3 hours per week of base mileage

Date Pull-ups Push-ups Ab Rollers Lunges Abs Drinks Total Comments
mar 2 192 90 90     nothing 2872 30m bike
mar 3       225 370 3-ipa 3467 1-hr trail run
mar 4 170 50   50   1-gibson
10  beers
3737 1-hr mtn bike easy + many cigarettes
mar 5           2-ipa   trade show - 10 hrs walking/schmoozing/eating
mar 6   200   200 300 3-ipa 4437 1 hr trail run
mar 7           too tired ?   climb = 2X10/1X11/3X12c/1X13a (hurt calf in fall)
mar 8 96   240     glass of red 4773 + lock-off bouldering and power hangs
mar 9           1-ipa   14hrs in office... jesus!
mar 10 264 280 165 500 300 1-martini
2-fine ales
6282 2hr bike (tempo) + hang/lock-offs
mar 11           1-ipa   1.5 hr on trainer
mar 12     5     3-chardonney
3-ales
fosters oil can
6287 30m bike, super sore from wed
mar 13           lots o' beer
1-star trek dnk
  bouldering calico/ lot of hiking
mar 14           3-fat tire ale   red rocks: 1X10, 1X11, 1X12d, 3X12b
mar 15           3-syrah   30m bike, super tired
mar 16 165(1222) 110(1175) 145(1125) 200(1790) 120(1715) 1-red (work)
1-ale
7027 did terrible on weighted hangs
mar 17   200   420 610 3-knob creek 8257 30m bike/30m trail run (calf healing okay)
mar 18 215   275     2-gl zin 8747 plus power hangs + lock-offs
mar 19   160   270 260 1-manhattan
1-makers mark
2-PBR
9437 30m ride
mar 20           many fat tire ales/gl red   red rocks: 1X10/3X11/3X12 
mar 21               1x12, packed it in. tired/sore/hungover/wuss
mar 22 3 100 100 160 210 1-IPA 10000 really quite tired at the moment
mar 23 30         too tired 10030 super tired w/sore elbows... uh-oh
mar 24 130 (1600) 230(1865) 150(1650) 560(3200) 220(3015) 2-fat tire
1-gl white
11330 i love ibuprofen. 1hr run, 30m bike
mar 25 70 130 50 150 200 2-gl syrah 11930 2.5hr bike (hard). 1st team w/o this year: oh-dear!
mar 26 100 100 100 100 100 tons of beer
knob creek
12430 hangin' w/andrea getting to be harder than hangin' w/reed
mar 27           5 coors   4hr bike/climb latigo,etc, w/team. got annihilated!
mar 28           4 coors   1X11/3X12. legs were cramping! starting to get sick.
mar 29               super sick. 16hr in bed. can't hold down food. blah, blah
mar 30               if i stay this sick i'll be able to climb really hard. lost 10lb. rad
mar 31 30 205 100 350 85     still not feeling well. hard day.
totals 1800 2300 1900 3800 3400   13200  

decent month. good, but not great. finishing with tender elbows and not enough time on the bike. stronger on pull-ups than i've been in years, if i can keep it up. however, my biking and running is a million miles away from last year.

April
Hypertrophy/Power

plus more bike time. hard bike workouts start
recovery week to start

Date Pull-ups Push-ups Ab Rollers Lunges Abs Drinks Total Comments
April 1               1 hr hike- really sick
April 2           2-red   30m bike - sick
April 3           2-red   climb 10 routes, easy, up to 11d-sick
April 4           1-glass red   1hr bike trainer/ 1hr hike - sick-shit!
April 5           3-pacifico   still sick, unbelievable!! 30m ride easy
April 6 130 100 140 100 100 2-IPA 13770 30m ride/power hangs/still sick/felt like shit
April 7   30   100 100 1-IPA 14000 40m trail run/still sick.... jesus!
April 8 10 20 0 20 40 1-IPA 14090 45m trail run/1hr bike (slow) still friggin' sick!
April 9               feeling better, still coughing up aliens/30m bike
April 10           can't recall   3 hr bike, hard, plus some hiking w/ratso
A 11           ? 1 beer?   1x10, 5X11, 1X12, 1X13 - hammered
A 12           2- bourbon   too much w/sickness easy hike w/ratso
A 13           2-IPA   still tired. weird illness, this one. 30m run
A 14 50 150 130 250 400 1-IPA 15070 1hr gym climb/30m bike: coughed all night...shit!
A 15 30 90 60 100   1-guiness 15350 1hr gym/30m bike didn't sleep, going to dr! 
A16               took drugs, slept for 13hrs...
A17 25 50 25 100     15550 2hr hike. more drugs; more sleep...
A18           5-beers   1.5h bike (5 rings of hell): climb 1x12, 5X11  so bad on the bike i'm sure i have cancer.
A19 50 50 50 100    1-brew 15800  sore from sunday. feel better. may be back!
5 mile group run, hard
A20    frggn' tired!   40m trail run / 2.5 hr bike, team, hard-sucked 
 A21  50 50   50      2-brews 15950  1hr bouldering.. legs were shaking 
 A22  140  180 100   550  700    17620  comin' back, look out! 1hr bike
 A23  100  100  100  200  200  4-gin/tonic
3-guiness
bottle of red
 18320  long night of drinking
A24   (2385)  (3120)  (2555)  (5320)  (4940)  2-glasses wine
jack on rocks
18320   6 hrs cardio/hiking trad climbing at tahquitz
 A25            1-brew, tired    4X5.10/ 2X5.12
 A26  100  100  100 200   200  2-beers  19020 still not feeling great so having testing done 
 A27  60  100  60  350 300   1-fine ale
1-knob creek
 19890  fingertip push-ups/2.5hr group ride-hard
 A28  200  200      250  2-ale
1-knob creek
 20540  1hr climb / campusing (1st in years)
 A29  100 100  100  100   100  1-beer  21140  1hr ride
 A30       100     1.5 bottles chardonnay 21240   30m ride/1hr trail run/
totals  2945  3620  2815  6070  5790   21240   

illness derailed the plan. finished okay but not feeling great, still. very odd. climbing has gotten weaker but overall fitness is probably up b/c of intensity on the bike, which has improved considerably.

May
Power climb/LT on bike

another recovery week to start with some easy volume, no LA build-up to try and re-gain some energy. sheesh, what the hell? a month of campusing and power work, mainly on the board. LT base on bike. No hammering except, perhaps, an occasional race. maybe some work on diet is needed.

Date Pull-ups Push-ups Ab Rollers Lunges Abs Drinks Total Comments
May 1 too tired climb: 3X 5.10; 2X 5.13
May 2 2-gin/tonic
1-ale
4hr ride, hard; 6 hours of walking, etc, cochella
May 3 unbelievably tired
May 4 100 3-beers 21340 2.5 hrs bike LT
May 5 220 220 220 200 200 3-IPA 22400 easy low-rep sets
May 6 500 500 2-sam adams 23400 30m bike, some stretching
May 7 50 50 50 100 2-brew 23650 30m bike
May 8 3-beer 5hr on bike (4,000') climbing
May 9 3-ale climb 6X5.10/1X5.11/3X5.13
May 10 3-ale rest day
M11 50 75 50 3-ale 23825 campusing/1hr boudering gym
M12 50 75 50 350 350 3-ale 24700 2hr ride w/sprints
M 13 100 100 100 2-ale
2-martini
25000 stretching-yikes, need to stretch more
M14 175 100 140 600 250 1-sn ale 26265 30-mi bike
M15 (3590) (4240) (3425) (7920) (7090) 6-ales 26265 yos - lots of soloing, running, hiking, bouldering
M16 20 3-beers 26285 yos - eb mid cathedral, a little soloing
M17 110 160 155 580 410 2-beers performance nutrition conf - rest day
M18 (3700) (4400) (3600) (8500) (7500) 3-asahi 27700 1.5 hrs bike w/sprints
M19 400 200 2-gl cabernet 28300 doing hans' bd challenge... campusing 30m bike
m20 100 100 2-gl cab 28500 30m bike/40m trail run
 m21 1-margarita
6-beers
8 mile trail run, hills
 m22 2-gl wine
1-ipa
3X5.10/3X5.11/3X5.12
 m23 1 pitcher bike race am / pm run/hike mt harwood 9,700'
m24  3-ipa rest day
 m25 4-ales 30m bike/ another rest day
 m26 150 100 210 650 zip 29610 30m bike/45m trial run/long campus/boulder session
 m27 150 190 600 800 4-margaritas
2 beers
31350 30m bike
 m28 100 100 100 250 100 3 beers 32000 30m bike
 m29 (4200) (5000) (4200) (10000) (8600) lots of beer (32000) 2X5.11/hours of hiking
 m30            beer - many
bushmills
   hiking/running/bouldering
May 31 none hiked mt laural 11.812 in 3.5 hours
totals (4200) (5000) (4200) (10000) (8600) (32000)  

good month. small hip issue, start recovery and have more rest this month.

June
test out some long hard days

another recovery week to start and not focus too much this month. instead, get some really hard days in and focus on recovering well from them.

Date Pull-ups Push-ups Ab Rollers Lunges Abs Drinks Total Comments
june 1               30m ride/bouldered at gym
june 2               30m ride
june 3               campused
june 4           3- stone IPA
1-grand marner
many beers
  30 m ride
june 5           5 beers
10 gin & tonics
  VEGAS 1hr ride w/hills
june6           hmmm   hazy... long drive home in HEAT
june7           1-beer-tired   nothing
june 8           tired   30 m ride bouldered 2hr
june 9           2-beers   30m ride/climb, tony's cave 10, 11, 2X5.12
june10 100 100 100   300 1-martini 32600 30m ride/climb at gym
june11 100 100 100   300 2-beers 33200 30 m ride
june12           2-glasses cab   3 hours team ride
june13           1-sam smith   hans' challenge: 4 yosemite formations in 15 hrs, half dome, el cap, royal arches, manure pile buttress
june14           1-beer   complete rest...
june15 400 400 400     1-martini
1-chardonney
34400 30m ride
june16 (4800) (5600) (4800) (10000) (9200) 1-chardonney  

bouldered 2 hours at gym

june17 100 100 100     3-IPA 34700  
june18           4-martinis
3 guiness
  hans' martini challenge
june19           1-beer
3 glasses red
  100k bike/ hans' challenge
june20           2-IPA   berkeley death ride +2/ 7 samurai w/ aaron/russ
june21           2-IPA   rest
june22 105 105 105     2-IPA 35015  
june23 100   200     2-IPA 35315 30m bike
june24           2-IPA    
june25 95 95 295   300 2-IPA 36100  
june26           2-red   4hr bike/ 2.5hr trail run 4 peaks over 8,000
june27           2-red   climb 3X5.10/3X11/1X12
june28 200 200 200   200      
june29 100   300   300      
june30 100 100 100     2-IPA    
  5600 6200 6100 10000 10000   37900  

July
month off

i can do anything i want this month. off to france. goals: to have fun
hit list: la dibona, something at ceuse, climb alpe d'huez, galibier, ventoux...

okay, so august and september were off too. not really. been training with very little planning. climbing training and 50,000 challenged sidetracked by shoulder injury that is healing. new graphic is for new training program.

oct 11 2004

well,  that didn't last long. so much for "is healing".

the 50000 challenge is more or less over for me and has been for a while as my push-ups have been falling further and further behind. this weekend got the official 'take care of that shoulder because you should have a cortisone shot' speech from kevin brown of elite rehab. i originally hurt my shoulder doing push-ups, i guess. in any case, they started to become slightly bothersome months back. my 'go easy' attempt at rehab seemed to be slightly working until this weekend when everything went quickly south during one somewhat shoulder-intensive move at the owl tor. since it's not like i'm never doing push-ups again i will finish. just no time soon since i've been ordered to two weeks off of my shoulder before beginning rehab after which 'push-ups are the worst thing you can do.'

totals on oct 11

pull-ups  10,000
push-ups 8,350
ab rollers 9,400
lunges 10,000
"v" ab work 10,000

to fill the rehab period i've scheduled a race to pass the time. could be grim, since it's long and i don't have much training. let's see what can happen in 3 weeks. i'm starting day one, today, with a slight cold so that should add to the fun.

oct 11 oct 12 oct 13 oct 14 oct 15 oct 16 oct 17 comments
40m aero (easy)  run

40m aero bike

2 hr aero bike

core training w/rehab and f/a stuff and stretching

3x mandeville

or

1.5 hr LT bike

run
10x 3 ac/sst

core training w/rehab and f/a stuff and stretching

niketown easy

mtn bike easy

off work or long aero workout 10m easy ride
10m easy run
5m hard run
20m hard ride
5m hard run
10m easy run/walk
5m hard run
10m hard ride
5m hard run
5m easy run
20m easy ride

 
oct 18 oct 19 oct 20 oct 21 oct 22 oct 23 oct 24 comment
recovery

core training w/rehab and f/a stuff and stretching

track
15m warm-up
500 on
300 off
700 on
400 off
900 on
500 off
1100 on
600 off
1300 on
700 off
10m recovery
repeat in reverse going down
10m cool down
am la grange
mandeville x 3
+ easy 15m run

core training w/rehab and f/a stuff and stretching

niketown easy

mtn bike

off work or long aero workout 20m ride easy
10m run easy
2x
10m lt run
10m lt ride
10m easy ride
10m lt ride
10m lt run
10m easy run

cool down

 
oct 25 oct 26 oct 27 oct 28 oct 29 oct 30 oct 31 comments
recovery

core training w/rehab and f/a stuff and stretching

ride 2 hr aero

run 50m aero

climb easy

ride 90m
(20m easy
4-6x 6on/4off
20m easy

core training w/rehab and f/a stuff and stretching

am ride la grange hill workout

niketown fast

mtn bike

off climb easy

easy ride

early am (race time)

15m ride easy
10m run easy
10m run race pace
20m ride race
10m run race
10m run easy
15m ride easy

 

 
nov 1 nov 2 nov 3 nov 4 nov 5 nov 6 nov 7 comments
recovery

core training w/rehab and f/a stuff and stretching

VOTE!

stretch/meditate & cross fingers

run 10k easy w/ race pace between 5-6k

core training w/rehab and f/a stuff and stretching

1 hr ride (10 easy, 6X 2m race pace/4m easy/10m easy

30m run (3X 2m on/4m off)

off climb AM
test bike, jog, preview course
race  

Without elaborating the race went okay and I qualified for the US Team for the World's. Now it's time to get ready for an upcoming adventure race, then time for some proper off-season conditioning. Shoulder is getting better and I can climb about 11+ super slow and static. Real climbing is still a ways off...

2005

Under the 'some people never learn' category I've come up with a little deja vu for the start of 2005. Just found out about a race and I've got another 3 weeks to train and, once again, I'm starting from scratch. Genius. Why couldn't I just do a little friggin' training over the holidays? I have been training for climbing, however,  and will continue to train around climbing adding further complications to this matter. If I can have a decent race, it'll be a miracle. I will also qualify to race in Australia, so there's the inspiration. Plus I could do two World Championship races in the same year. While this sounds cool I'm really not psyched on riding or running at the moment. Only climbing. I should probably re-read The Perfect Mile.

jan 31 feb 1 feb 2 feb 3 feb 4 feb 5 feb 6 comments
30m aero (easy)  run

30m aero bike

2 hr aero bike

trail run
10x 3 ac/sst

core/function training easy

ride
3x mandeville

or

1.5 hr LT bike

 

ride
la grange hill workout

climb training
power-endurance

30m aero run

stretching

climb 10m easy ride
10m easy run
5m hard run
20m hard ride
5m hard run
10m easy run/walk
5m hard run
10m hard ride
5m hard run
5m easy run
20m easy ride

climb easy

 
feb 7 feb 8 feb 9 feb 10 feb 11 feb 12 feb 13 comment
recovery

core/function training easy

track
15m warm-up
500 on
300 off
700 on
400 off
900 on
500 off
1100 on
600 off
1300 on
700 off
10m recovery
repeat in reverse going down
10m cool down
ride
mandeville x 3
+ easy 15m run

climb training
power-endurance

ride
la grange hill workout
off climb 20m ride easy
10m run easy
2x
10m lt run
10m lt ride
10m easy ride
10m lt ride
10m lt run
10m easy run

climb easy

 
feb 14 feb 15 feb 16 feb 17 feb 18 feb 19 feb 20 comments
recovery

core/function training easy

track
15m warm-up
8 X (500m race
300m easy)

10m rest

8 X (300m race
300m easy)
cool down

ride
15m easy
3 X (20m LT
10m easy)

15m run easy

climb training
power-endurance

am ride la grange hill workout early 75m bike easy 10m ride easy
30m ride LT
15m run 5K
5m rest
15m run race
30m ride sub LT
15m ride easy
stretch

climb easy

early am easy ride

climb

 

 

 
feb 21 feb 22 feb 23 feb 24 feb 25 feb 26 feb 27 comments
recovery

 

3 X (10m ride race
5m run race
5m run easy
5m ride easy)

run 5k easy w/ race pace between 5-6k

climb training

1 hr ride (10 easy, 6X 2m race pace/4m easy/10m easy

 

drive to phoenix climb AM
test bike, jog, preview course
race