The
Birthday Challenge Boulders Rock: Sandstone Number of Problems: 90 (all under V5) Potential Problems: 500 Landings: Mainly excellent Nature: Beautiful, remote setting. Generally high problems on positive holds with good landings. Approach: a casual 10 minutes. |
The Birthday Challenge Boulders
Directions: Take the dirt road past the end of the Pine Mountain bouldering area (see Santa Barbara Bouldering or Rock Climbing: SB and Ventura if you don't know where this is) to its end. Hike out the dirt road. After a few minutes a good trail will go off left and the road will go right. Take the left trail through the pine trees for about 5 minutes to the first boulders.
1. Blonde on Blonde (V0) *** High problem up good pockets on low-angle face.
2. Dragon Lord (V3) * R Wide crack with crux up high over a boulder.
3. Go To Nothing (V2) * Climb just left of the arete. If you get scared you can reach left out left to the arete. When cleaned more will probably go directly up the face.
4. Foxy Boxing (V1) Sit-start with hands on small ledge and feet out left. Up and mantel.
5. Don' Wanna' Look Small (V0-) * High arete. Easy at the top. Great rock.
6. Basel Riff Bong (V0) Low-angle face left of arete. Crux is first move.
7. Muscle-bound Charlatan (V4) ** Sit start and follow pockets straight up.
8. Quidado Tigre (V2) * Sit-start and climb the arete.
9. Swinging the Chicken Essence (V0-) Sit-start and climb straight up the face.
10. Wolf on the Hill (V0-) When he wants the food it's there. Climb the crack to the rim.
11. Squeeze the Exerciser (V0-) Straight up face on the last boulder of the group.
12. Project Good but sandy pockets over a reasonably-bad fall.
13. Bowling Shinto's (V3) R * Thin and suspect edges with a bad fall ... and high.
14. Wait When You See It (V0) R * Delicate up high. Stunning line. Average problem.
15. Embassy Girls (V0) Sit-start and climb the little boulder.
16. Tailhouse Rock (V0) * Sit-start and climb the right-leaning arete.
17. Fairchild Left (V1) * Climb the tall crackish thing.
18. Fairchild Right (V1) ** Climb the face then move left to finish. High but a has a good fall.
19. Night of Loving Dangerously (V2) R * Blunt arete right of the crack. Nice pockets but a bad fall.
20. Anabolic Fritters (V3) * Tall face with crux dyno off small pocket up high.
21. Stacking Fritter Fat Grams (V0+) * Face right of #20.
22. The Fastrack to Fritter Fitness (V2) * Sit-start. Climb wide edge, bear-hug style.
22.5. Fritter Fodder (V3) Sit-start. A short but hard problem up sloping edges.
23. Sizzling Suburbia (V0) * Nice slab climbing.
24. 10 Babes For 10 Cents (V0-) R * Good tall slab.
25. Feelin' Natty (V0+) R * Right of #24. Crux at the end.
26. King Pin Coffin (V0+) R * Line left of the crack.
27. Chock Full O' Fritters (V0) Tall crack with the chockstone. Don't pull it out.
28. Pussy Stuff (V0) Sit-start. One long move.
29. Ain't Pussy Stuff, Boy! (V2) * Sit-start and climb the corner. Hard pull with tricky feet.
30. 40 Ways To Love Your Leaver (V0+) R ** Still super dirty but it's great, just great.
31. 40 Leaves To Weigh Your Lover (V0+) R ** Also dirty and great. Big jugs. Steep!
32. Dangling Participles Of (V1) * Climb the pockets.
33. Smoke Doctor? (V0-) Low-angle face.
34. Red Hot Rock (V0+) Aretish thing. Rock to left is off.
35. Mahogany Challenge (V1) ** Sit-start the arete.
36. Vincent Christ (V1) * Sit-start and make a long move.
37. Royal Ambassador (V0+) * Sit-start on just and go up.
38. Lumberjack Score (V0-) Climb the slab.
39. Gucci (V0) R * Climb the short, blank slab. Foot starts on a hold on the edge. If it skates you face the possibility of an ugly fall.
40. Mounting the Master (V0+) * The most downhill line.
41. Le Bien, Le Mal ( V0-) Straight up via good edges.
42. Don't Take the German People Lightly (V0+) * Another pretty good slabby thing.
43. Hunan Holmes (V0) * Start in crack. Climb up and right.
44. The Vegan Gambler (V1) * Nice pockets lead to a mantel.
45. Prunes and Jalapenos (V0+) R * Angle up and right on pockets.
46. Nelson (V0) * Blunt, low-angle buttress.
47. Frank Rizzo (V0-) Up the groove.
48. Jack Torrs (V0-) Left side of face.